Retiro Hotels

in Madrid

Known as the lungs of Madrid, this park is basically the locals backyard on Sundays. They come with all the family to eat drink and be merry. If you need a break from the hustle and bustle, this enormous park is an oasis of calm in the centre of the city. After a checkered cloth picnic of great Spanish wine and cheese, try one of the paddle boats and see the great views from the lake. (Go easy on the wine if you are planning not to go round in circles).
To the North of the park you will see a giant doorway known as the Puerta de Alcala where once a year a flock of more than 1000 sheep are herded down Alcala street, according to its traditional use as a livestock trail. It is hard to believe when you pass by on an ordinary day that the roaring traffic must give way to these cuddly creatures making their way from greener pastures into the busy capital. Beside this impressive monument you will find an array of irresistible deserts like homemade apple pie in the stylish cafe Harina meaning flour. It is a great place to grab a snack before venturing into the Botanical itinerary available at the entrance to Retiro park. The highlights include Madrono trees, the symbol of Madrid found on the city crest.

The itinerary also leads to Madrids oldest tree, opposite the old royal ballroom Cason del Buen Retiro. It's a Mexican conifer planted in 1633, the same time as Retiro Palace was being built. It was one of the only original trees to survive the Napoleonic war because the French used its branches to point and discharge their canons.

Another interesting stop on the Retiro itinerary is the former zoo. Until 1972 the city zoo was located here. It was originally built to exhibit specimens found in Spanish colonies in America. In 1868 it was rented to a lion-tamer, Luis Cavana, who opened it to the public and transformed it into a circus like attraction. When the civil war broke out in the 1930s most animals perished. The zoo was restocked with animals afterwards, but it was replaced in the 1960s by a modern spacious zoo in Casa de Campo, a vast park on the west side of the city. Some remnants do remain here however, the former entrance and cages, a pit for monkeys and a rock cavern where a bear was kept. These eerie monuments have a ghostly feel, as if the animals have escaped and lurk in the trees, waiting to pounce at any moment.

A sight in Retiro not to be missed is the beautiful crystal palace. If a picnic is on the cards this is where to have it. The grass is greener, the pond is cleaner (well not really but some fish do manage to survive) and the palace is enchanting. Built in 1887 to house exotic flora as part of an exhibition on the Philippines which was still a Spanish colony, today its used to exhibit contemporary art through the Reina Sofia. As always with contemporary art, expect the unexpected, from plastic paraphernalia stacked into a tower and painted white to a giant slide for over 12s you never know what you might find. The one thing that never changes is the beautiful palace, come at sunset to watch the red sky light up through the delicate glass and feel like a duchess straight out of pride and prejudice.

If the idea of walking tires you out think about renting a bike instead with Rent a bike for only 4 euros an hour. Save that shoe leather.

For the bookworms, make sure to exit Retiro park at Cuesta Moyano which is lined with second hand book stalls reminiscent of the stalls along the river seine in Paris. Have a rummage through their 2euro piles and you'll find everything from 1960s housewife tips to tatty encyclopedias that will surely be worth a fortune one day (or at least that's how you justify the pile you keep in the attic).

Sleep
Hotel Wellington
AC Palacio del Retiro, Autograph Collection
Hospes Madrid

Transport
Retiro park is on the metro line 2, http://prs.metromadrid.es/metro/mapametrofull.asp and connects with Sol.
Buses also stop at Retiro. For more information click ABC Serrano